--- title: "How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 2 of 3 (Layout Design)" description: "Complete guide to planning and designing closet layouts for new construction. Covers reach-in closets, walk-in closets, linen closets, and specialty closets with standard dimensions, section planning, and professional layout tips. Part 2 of a 3-part closet shelving series." url: "https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/closet-layout-part-2/" updated: "2026-09-27" category: Closets tags: - Level 2 - "Multi-Part" --- # How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 2 of 3 (Layout Design) On this page[Introduction](#)[Series Overview](#)[Closet Layout Design Principles](#)[Reading the Floor Plan](#)[Measuring the Space](#)[Planning for User Needs](#)[Marking the Layout on the Wall](#)[Bedroom Reach-In Closet Layouts](#)[Standard Reach-In (4-6 Feet Wide)](#)[Small Reach-In (3-4 Feet Wide)](#)[Large Reach-In (6-8 Feet Wide)](#)[Walk-In Closet Layouts](#)[Standard Walk-In](#)[Primary Walk-In](#)[Walk-In Planning Tips](#)[Linen Closet Layouts](#)[Linen Shelves](#)[Pantry Shelves](#)[Pro Tips for Closet Layout Design](#)[Closet Shelving Series](#)[Related Guides](#) [Closets](/learn-category/closets/) Skill Level: [Intermediate (Level 2)](/learn/difficulty-levels/#level-2) · Estimated Time: Planning Reference Guide ## Introduction Before you cut a single piece of shelving material or drive your first screw, plan the layout. Layout is the most important step in closet shelving. A good layout uses every inch of space and gives the homeowner shelves and rod space they can actually use. Good layout work happens before you ever pick up a tool. Planning matters because every closet is different. Even in the same house, you will find reach-in closets, walk-in closets, linen closets, and coat closets. Each one has its own job. A bedroom reach-in closet needs double-hang sections (two rods, one above the other, so you get two rows of hanging clothes in the same width) for shirts and pants. A linen closet needs evenly spaced shelves for towels and sheets instead. Get the layout right and you will have fewer callbacks and happier homeowners. Different closet types need different approaches. A standard reach-in closet splits into two sections at a center bulkhead: one side long hang, one side double hang. A primary walk-in closet can be much more: his-and-hers sides, a dedicated section for accessories, and a mix of long hang (a single rod set higher, with open space below it for full-length garments) and double-hang areas. Knowing these differences, and planning for them, is what separates a skilled finish carpenter from someone who just screws boards to walls. This guide is Part 2 of our three-part closet shelving series. In [Part 1 (Standards)](/learn/closet-shelves-standards-part-1/), we covered the standard measurements, rod heights, shelf spacing, and material specs that every closet build starts from. Here in Part 2, we take those standards and apply them to real closet layouts. In [Part 3 (Building)](/learn/build-closet-shelves-part-3/), we walk through the actual construction, step by step. Learn all three parts and you can handle any closet in any house. **Which guide do I need?** - Step 1: learn the shelf standards and specs: [How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 1 of 3 (Standards)](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/closet-shelves-standards-part-1/) - **Step 2: plan your closet layout design: this guide** - Step 3: build and install the shelves: [How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 3 of 3 (Building)](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/build-closet-shelves-part-3/) ## Series Overview - **Part 1 - Standards:** [Closet Shelves Standards - Part 1 of 3](/learn/closet-shelves-standards-part-1/) - Standard measurements, rod heights, shelf spacing, and material specifications. - **Part 2 - Layout Design (You Are Here):** How to plan and design closet layouts for every closet type you’ll encounter in new construction. - **Part 3 - Building:** [How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 3 of 3 (Building)](/learn/build-closet-shelves-part-3/) - Step-by-step construction process, cutting, installation, and finishing. This series is Tier 1 only - everything in Parts 1, 2, and 3 tops out at 84″. Above that is Tier 2 (bulkheads run to the ceiling, shelves stack all the way up), and it’s covered in its own guide, not here. A Tier 1 layout can add a third level above 80″ where the ceiling allows for it, typically around 120″ in a 10-foot ceiling, but that’s as far as this series goes. ## Closet Layout Design Principles ### Reading the Floor Plan Every closet layout begins with the floor plan. Before you visit the job site, study the blueprints to identify each closet’s type, location, and size. On most residential floor plans, closets are indicated by a small rectangular space with a door swing arc drawn at the opening. The door swing tells you which direction it opens and helps you plan where shelving can and cannot go. Common symbols to recognize: a single arc at the opening means a standard swing door. A double line across the opening means [bifold](/glossary/doors/#bifold-pivot-aligner) doors (two narrow panels hinged together that fold in half as they open). A dashed line going into the wall means a [pocket door](/glossary/doors/#pocket-door-frame-track-split-stud). The type of door affects your layout. [Bifold doors](/learn/install-bifold-doors/) give you full access to the closet width. A single swing door may limit access to one side. Pay attention to how wide the door opening is compared to the closet interior. Label each closet on your copy of the floor plan with its intended type: “BR” for bedroom reach-in, “WI” for walk-in, “LC” for linen closet, “CC” for coat closet. This labeling system helps you quickly reference each closet as you develop layouts and ensures nothing gets overlooked during the build. ### Measuring the Space Accurate measurements are the foundation of a good closet layout. Even if you have the floor plan dimensions, always verify them on site - framing dimensions rarely match the plans exactly. Measure the following for every closet: - **Wall-to-wall width:** Measure at the back wall, the front (at the door opening), and at mid-depth. Walls are not always perfectly parallel - use the smallest measurement to ensure your shelves fit. - **Depth:** Measure from the back wall to the face of the door [jamb](/glossary/doors/#jamb-head-jamb-hinge-side-jamb-strike-side-jamb-jamb-leg). Standard closets are typically 24″ deep, but always verify. Walk-in closets will have varying depths on each wall. - **Door opening width:** Measure the clear opening between door jambs. This determines what you can bring into the closet and affects how you plan the front sections. - **Ceiling height:** Measure from the finished floor (or subfloor if flooring isn’t installed yet) to the ceiling. This determines your top shelf height and whether you have room for an additional storage shelf above the standard layout. - **Obstructions:** Note any HVAC ducts, electrical panels, plumbing access panels, light fixtures, or outlets that will affect shelf placement. ### Planning for User Needs Not every closet serves the same purpose. The best layouts are designed around who will use them. The [National Association of Home Builders](https://www.nahb.org/) recommends planning storage around how people actually use their space. In new construction, you may not know exactly who will live in each room. But you can still make smart choices based on standard usage patterns. - **His and Hers (Primary Bedroom Walk-In):** Typically divided with his side on one wall and hers on the other. Women’s sections usually include more double-hang space for blouses and folded items, plus shoe storage. Men’s sections often include more long-hang space for suits and jackets. - **Seasonal Storage:** If a closet is large enough, plan one section of high shelves or an upper shelf for seasonal items like blankets, luggage, or out-of-season clothing. - **Kids’ Closets:** Kids’ closets are not a special layout case. Lay them out the same as a standard reach-in or small walk-in, double hang at 40/80. - **Linen vs. Bedroom:** Linen closets are all shelves - no rods, no hang sections. Bedroom closets are primarily hanging space with supporting shelves. Don’t mix up the layouts. ### Marking the Layout on the Wall The floor plan is for estimating piece count ahead of time, nothing more. What actually gets built is written on the wall itself, after drywall and before paint - the painters paint right over your marks. Plans don’t always match what got built, so verify everything by walking the house before you lay anything out. - **Bulkhead:** a vertical line. - **Shelf:** a horizontal SOLID line. - **Rod:** a horizontal DASHED line. - Write every shelf height and each shelf’s depth right on the wall next to its line, so there’s no guessing back at the shop. ## Bedroom Reach-In Closet Layouts Reach-in closets are the most common closet type in residential construction. You will typically find them in secondary bedrooms, guest rooms, and sometimes hallways. The key to a good reach-in layout is to fit in as much hanging space as you can while still leaving room for shelves, all within a small footprint. ### Standard Reach-In (4-6 Feet Wide) The standard reach-in closet uses a [bifold or bypass door](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/install-bifold-bypass-frame-80/) that opens from the center. Build a divider bulkhead down the middle of the closet. Each side gets its own layout: one side long hang, one side double hang. - **Long Hang Side:** Single rod at 65″, top shelf at 80″. Open space below the rod for dresses, robes, and other full-length garments. - **Double Hang Side:** Two rods - lower rod at 40″, upper rod at 80″. Two rows of hanging space for shirts, folded pants, and shorter garments. - **Top Shelf:** Runs the full width at 80″, level across both sides of the bulkhead. It counts as two pieces where it crosses the bulkhead - cut one continuous board if it fits, or cut it into two and fit each side separately. Either way it is the same shelf. For a 5-foot closet with a [center-opening bifold door](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/install-bifold-bypass-slabs-80/): long hang on one side at 65/80, double hang on the other side at 40/80, split down the middle by the bulkhead. ### Small Reach-In (3-4 Feet Wide) Small reach-in closets are found in secondary bedrooms, offices, and smaller homes. With only 3-4 feet of width and a single swinging door (not a center-opening door), there’s no bulkhead divider here - one layout runs the full width. Most small reach-ins are coat closets. - **Long Hang:** Single rod at 65″, top shelf at 80″. This is the usual call for a coat closet - it gives room for longer coats, with room underneath for boots. - **Double Hang:** Two rods, lower rod at 40″, upper rod at 80″. Use this instead when the closet needs more folded and short-garment storage than coat space. - **One Section Only:** At this size, don’t try to fit a shelf stack alongside a hanging section - it makes everything too cramped. Pick long hang or double hang, not both. ### Large Reach-In (6-8 Feet Wide) Large reach-in closets, typically found in master bedrooms of homes without a walk-in closet, give you room for a third section. It’s the standard reach-in layout, bifold or [bypass door](/learn/install-bypass-doors/), bulkhead divider, long hang on one side, double hang on the other, plus a five-shelf stack built into the middle. - **Long Hang Side:** Single rod at 65″, top shelf at 80″. Same as the standard reach-in. - **Double Hang Side:** Two rods, lower rod at 40″, upper rod at 80″. Same as the standard reach-in. - **Five-Shelf Stack:** Built between two bulkheads in the middle, 18″ or 24″ wide. Five shelves at 20″, 35″, 50″, 65″, and 80″ (start at 20″, every 15″ after that). No rod in this section. Remember: all dimensions come from the standards in Part 1. Use 3/4″ particle board for shelves and 1-1/4″ [closet rod](/glossary/closets/#closet-rod-rod-socket-flange) for hanging sections. Make sure every shelf has proper [cleat](/glossary/closets/#cleat) support (cleat = the wood strip screwed to the wall studs that the shelf rests on) - check the standards guide for the specs. ## Walk-In Closet Layouts Walk-in closets are a premium feature in residential construction. A well-designed layout is what makes them actually work well, not just look nice. Unlike a reach-in closet, where you only have one wall, a walk-in closet gives you two or three walls to work with. That means a lot more room for different kinds of storage. ### Standard Walk-In A standard walk-in closet is typically found in secondary master bedrooms or as an upgrade in larger secondary bedrooms. These are usually 5-6 feet wide by 6-8 feet deep, giving you two long walls and a back wall to work with. - **U-Shape Layout:** Shelving and rods on both side walls and the back wall. This maximizes storage but requires careful planning at the corners where sections meet. Leave a 36″ minimum walkway down the center. - **L-Shape Layout:** Shelving on two walls (one side and the back, or both sides). This is common when one wall has an obstruction like an HVAC duct or when the closet isn’t deep enough for a full U-shape. - **Double Hang Wall:** Usually the longer wall. Double hang the full length, two rods at 40″ and 80″. - **Long Hang + Five-Shelf Stack Wall:** The other wall splits between a long hang section (single rod at 65″, top shelf at 80″) and a five-shelf stack (20″, 35″, 50″, 65″, 80″), 18″ or 24″ wide. A typical standard walk-in layout: the longer wall runs double hang at 40/80. The shorter wall splits between long hang at 65/80 and a five-shelf stack at 20/35/50/65/80. Top shelf runs continuous at 80″ wherever double hang and long hang sections meet. ### Primary Walk-In The primary walk-in closet is typically the largest closet in the home, often 7-10 feet wide and 8-12 feet deep. Homeowners expect this closet to be well organized and to actually work for their day-to-day routine, so take the time to plan it carefully. - **Mix and Match:** The primary walk-in is the one closet where you can combine any section types you want, double hang, long hang, five-shelf stack, in whatever combination the walls call for. Need more shoe storage? Add shelves to a stack. There are no tilted shoe shelves and no island or center feature on this build - an island comes from a cabinet shop, not from us. We only build around the walls. - **Accessories Section:** A section of narrow shelves, spaced closer together than the standard runs, for accessories like belts, ties, jewelry boxes, and small bins. Run it at whichever of the standard depths suits the wall it lands on. Often placed at the end of a wall near the entrance for easy access. - **Long Hang Area:** At least one section of long hang (single rod at 65″, top shelf at 80″) for dresses, robes, overcoats, and other full-length garments. Place this where it won’t block the walkway. Minimum 30″ wide to be useful. - **Double Hang Areas:** The bulk of most primary walk-in closets is still double hang - lower rod at 40″, upper rod at 80″. Plan for at least 48-60″ of double-hang space per person in a his/hers layout. ### Walk-In Planning Tips - **Maintain a 36″ minimum walkway:** This is non-negotiable. Anything narrower feels cramped and makes it difficult to access lower shelves and drawers. In larger closets, aim for 42-48″ if the space allows. - **Don’t shelf above the door opening:** On a closet with a standard door, the space right above the opening is often wasted. Don’t run a shelf across the top of the door - it looks awkward and is hard to reach. Instead, run a return shelf on each side (a short shelf that stops before it reaches the door, instead of spanning across the opening). - **Consider light switch location:** The light switch is usually on the wall just inside the door. Make sure your layout doesn’t place a shelf or vertical divider right where the switch is. Measure the switch plate location before finalizing your layout and leave at least 4″ clearance on each side. - **Corner transitions:** Where two walls of shelving meet in a corner, you have a few options. You can butt one section into the other, which leaves a dead corner (a small pocket of space you can’t use). You can use an L-shaped shelf that wraps the corner. Or you can leave a 12-16″ gap for a corner shelf unit. Butting is the most common approach on most jobs. - **Electrical and HVAC:** Check for outlets, cable jacks, or HVAC registers before you finalize the layout. You cannot cover these with shelving. Plan sections to work around them or adjust shelf heights to clear them. ## Linen Closet Layouts Linen closets need the simplest layout, but they still have their own rules. Unlike bedroom closets, linen closets are all shelves - no rods, no hanging sections. The goal is to fit in as much usable shelf space as you can for towels, sheets, blankets, toiletries, and household supplies. ### Linen Shelves Linen closets are all shelves, no rods. The height scheme is fixed no matter how wide or deep the closet is: five shelves at 20″, 33″, 46″, 59″, and 72″ (start at 20″, every 13″ after that). Most doors are a standard 6-foot-8-inch door, but with a full 8-foot door you can add a sixth shelf at 85″. - **Shelf Heights:** 20″, 33″, 46″, 59″, 72″, optional 85″ with an 8-foot door. - **Shelf Depth:** Bottom four shelves at 16″ deep, top shelf at 12″ deep so you can still reach it. If a 24″ depth fits the closet, run the bottom four at 24″ and the top shelf at 16″ instead - same reasoning, keep the top shelf shallow enough to reach. - **Only Three Depths:** 12″, 16″, or 24″ - nothing in between. Never rip a 24″ down to 22″ to make it fit; if 24″ doesn’t fit, drop to 16″. ### Pantry Shelves Pantry shelves are a completely different scheme from linen shelves. Don’t combine the two, and never write “linens/pantry” on a layout or a cut list. Pantry heights are measured to the top of the cleat from finished floor, not to the shelf itself. - **Cleat-Top Heights:** 17-1/4″, 35-1/4″, 54″, 69″, and 84″ from finished floor. In a 10-foot ceiling only, you can add a sixth shelf at 99″. - **Countertop-Height Shelf:** The 35-1/4″ cleat puts the shelf itself at 36″ high, which is countertop height. - **Depth:** 16″ deep throughout, except that countertop-height shelf can run 24″ deep if you want it. - **Cabinets:** Sometimes there’s [an actual cabinet](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/install-cabinets/) built into the pantry. Plan your shelf run around it. ## Pro Tips for Closet Layout Design These practical closet layout tips come from years of building closets in new construction. They’ll save you time and help you avoid mistakes. - **Always walk the closets before finalizing layouts.** Floor plans give you a starting point, but nothing replaces physically standing in the space. You’ll catch things the plans don’t show - uneven walls, HVAC vents in unexpected locations, framing irregularities, and sight lines from adjacent rooms. - **Check door swing - does it interfere with shelving?** Open the closet door fully and note where it stops. If the door swings into the closet, it may hit a shelf or rod if you’re not careful. Mark the door swing arc on your layout and ensure no shelving extends into that zone. For bifold doors, check that the folded door panels don’t hit side shelves when fully opened. - **Account for [baseboard](/glossary/moldings/#baseboard) height when you plan the lowest shelf.** If [baseboard](/learn/install-baseboard/) is already installed, or will be, your wall cleats and shelf heights need to account for that thickness. A 3-1/4″ baseboard means your first cleat has to start above that. If you install shelves before the baseboard goes in, plan for the baseboard to be [scribed](/glossary/layout-and-shop-talk/#scribe-story-pole) (cut so its edge follows the exact line of what it touches, for a tight fit) around your vertical supports. - **Label each closet on the floor plan with its layout type.** Use shorthand codes: “DH” for double hang, “LH” for long hang, “SS” for shelf stack, “LS” for linen shelves. A labeled plan becomes your build sheet - take it to the shop when cutting material and to the site when installing. - **Take photos of the framing before the drywall goes up.** Once the drywall is up, you can’t see the studs, [blocking](/glossary/moldings/#backing-blocking), or backing (extra framing added between studs to give you something solid to screw or nail into). Photos from the framing stage help you find the studs for cleat attachment, and spot any structural elements you’ll need to build around. - **Standardize your sections.** The more you repeat the same section widths (24″, 30″, 36″) across all the closets in a house, the faster your cutting and installation will go. Batch-cut all your 24″ shelves at once, then all your 30″ shelves, and so on. - **Plan your cut list before you start.** Once all the closet layouts are finalized, put together one master cut list organized by shelf width and depth. This cuts down on waste and speeds up the shop work a lot. Print the [Counting Closets](https://letsbuildstuff.co/website_ad59d41f/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/05-counting-closets.pdf) cheat sheet for the piece count. ## Closet Shelving Series This closet layout guide is part of a three-part series covering everything you need to know about building [closet shelves](/learn/closet-shelves-standards-part-1/) in new construction: - [Part 1 - Standards](/learn/closet-shelves-standards-part-1/): Measurements, rod heights, shelf spacing, and material specifications - **Part 2 - Layout Design (You Are Here)**: Planning and designing layouts for every closet type - [Part 3 - Building](/learn/build-closet-shelves-part-3/): Step-by-step construction, cutting, installation, and finishing ## Related Guides - [How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 1 of 3 (Standards)](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/closet-shelves-standards-part-1/) - [How to Build Basic Closet Shelves - Part 3 of 3 (Building)](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/build-closet-shelves-part-3/) - [How to Trim a House, Start to Finish](https://letsbuildstuff.co/learn/trim-a-house/) Written by **David Hospodka**, Sun’s Up Construction David Hospodka learned finish carpentry from his father, alongside his brother Joel, and worked his way through college trimming houses. He then spent about ten years as a railroad bridge engineer, handling design, construction, maintenance and project management. He came back to finish carpentry full time in 2017. [About Let’s Build Stuff](https://letsbuildstuff.co/about/)