Stairs/Handrails Skill Level: Advanced (Level 3)

What Changes When Building Garage Steps with Closed Risers #

In an open riser stair, there’s a gap under each tread (the step you stand on) with nothing covering it. With closed risers, you close that gap by nailing a board across it. Here’s what changes when you do that:

• Appearance: Looks cleaner and more finished. Common on stairs people will see, like a front entry
• Structural rigidity: Riser boards make the stringers (the angled boards the whole staircase is built on) stiffer side to side, so the stairs move less
• Safety: Prevents items (and pets, kids’ feet) from slipping through the gaps
• Build sequence: Risers MUST go in BEFORE treads. Each tread overlaps the top edge of the riser below it
• Material cost: You need more lumber for the riser boards, plus more adhesive and fasteners

Additional Materials #

Beyond everything in the core guide materials list, you need:

• Riser boards: 1×8 pine or similar softwood, OR 3/4″ plywood, OR 1/2″ plywood. Risers carry no load, so they are not structural. The material is mostly about looks, though it adds a little stiffness. Pick one based on the look you want:
  • 1× pine: Paintable, looks like finish carpentry. Best for visible stairs
  • 3/4″ plywood: Strongest option. Good if risers will take abuse
  • 1/2″ plywood: Lightest and cheapest. Fine for garage/utility stairs
• 1-1/4″ brad nails or 1-5/8″ screws to attach the risers (light fasteners, since risers carry no load)
• Extra construction adhesive: One bead per riser contact point

What’s Different: Step-by-Step #

Steps 1 through 6: No Changes #

Follow the core guide exactly for measuring total rise, laying out the stringers, cutting them, dry-fitting them, installing the kicker plate, and setting and attaching the stringers. None of that changes for a closed riser build.

Step 7: Install Risers - New Step #

This is the key addition for closed risers. Risers go in BEFORE treads. The sequence matters because each tread will overlap the top edge of its riser, locking everything together.

Measure and cut:

• Measure the width between the outside faces of both stringers at each riser location. Measure each one on its own - the width can vary by 1/8″ to 1/4″ from step to step
• Measure the height of each riser cut on the stringer. It should match your calculated riser height, but check it with a tape measure anyway
• Cut each riser board to these dimensions. Depending on your stringer style, the board should fit snugly either between the stringers or across their front face:
  • Between: The riser sits in the pocket between the two stringers, flush with the riser cut. This gives the cleaner look
  • Across: The riser spans across the front face of both stringers. Easier to install, but you’ll see the stringer edges

Install:

• Start with the bottom riser and work up
• Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the riser cut face on both stringers
• Set the riser board in position. Check that it sits flat against the riser cut, with its bottom edge flush with (or a little above) the tread cut below it
• Nail or screw the riser to the stringer at each end, using 2 to 3 fasteners per side
• Check that it’s plumb (perfectly vertical, with no lean). Hold a level against the riser face to check it. If it’s leaning forward or back, adjust it before the adhesive sets
• Repeat for each riser, working from bottom to top

Critical tip: The top edge of each riser should be flush with the tread cut above it. The tread will sit on the stringer’s tread cut AND overlap this top edge. If the riser top is too high, the tread will rock. If too low, there’ll be a visible gap.

Step 8: Install Treads - Modified #

Follow the core guide process for setting and screwing treads, with one addition:

• After screwing the tread to the stringers, also drive a screw or nail through the back of the tread down into the top edge of the riser below
• This locks the tread-to-riser joint and eliminates squeaks
• Use 2 to 3 fasteners along the back edge, evenly spaced
• Pre-drill if using screws near the edge to prevent splitting

Step 9: Final Verification #

Follow the core guide verifications, plus:

• Check that every riser is plumb (vertical) by running a level down each one
• Look for gaps between riser boards and stringers and flag any that are visible for the painter to seal
• Verify that treads sit tight against riser top edges - no visible gaps from the front

Quality Check: Garage Steps with Closed Risers #

When building garage steps with closed risers, verify these items beyond the core guide quality checklist:

• All risers are plumb (vertical) - check with a level
• No gaps between riser boards and stringer riser cuts
• Riser top edges are flush with tread cuts above
• Treads overlap riser tops with no visible gap from the front
• Tread-to-riser joint screws are driven (back of tread into riser top)
• Riser material is consistent - same thickness on all risers

Troubleshooting Garage Steps with Closed Risers #

Gap between riser and stringer: If the riser board doesn’t sit flush, the stringer’s riser cut may not be perfectly straight. Sand or plane the stringer cut smooth, or scribe the riser board (trace the uneven edge onto the board so you can cut it to match) and trim it with a jigsaw. For small gaps under 1/8″, construction adhesive will fill the void. A bigger gap is a fit problem, not something to leave for the painter to seal, since a gap that size only gets more visible once it is painted. Fix it by re-planing the stringer cut, or by re-scribing and re-trimming the riser.

Riser bows outward: This happens with thinner material (1/2″ plywood) on taller risers. Fix it by adding a horizontal cleat behind the riser at mid-height, screwed between the stringers. Or upgrade to 3/4″ plywood or solid 1× boards.

Tread rocks on riser top edge: The riser top edge is too high. Remove the tread. Plane or sand the riser top edge down until it’s flush with the stringer tread cut. Re-check with a straight edge across both stringers and the riser top.

Riser splits when fastening: Pre-drill all fastener holes, especially near edges and ends. For 1/2″ plywood, use brad nails instead of screws to reduce splitting risk.

Closed risers take more time and material than open risers, but they block dust and small items from falling through the gaps. That is worth it when the garage doubles as a mudroom or sees daily foot traffic.

External Resources #

• IRC R311.7 - Stairway Code Requirements - residential building code for stairs, handrails, treads, and guardrails
• Simpson Strong-Tie LSC Stair Stringer Connector - connector hardware for attaching stringers to headers and ledger boards

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Reference Photos #

The following photos show examples of this type of work completed in the field. These serve as visual references for quality standards, proper installation techniques, and finished results.

All (68) Before (1) During (15)

Showing 68 of 68 photos

Stair tread and riser measurements marked during framing—rise and run dimensions being verified on rough stairs.

Stair assembly in progress with treads, risers, and clamps during construction phase.

Stair landing in progress with raw wood treads, unfinished walls, and handrail framing visible.

Staircase with finished wood treads, white risers, newel post, and handrail taped for paint protection.

Wood stair treads installed over white-painted risers with newel post in progress.

Stair treads installed and taped, risers painted, metal railing in place during construction phase.

Finished wood stair treads and risers installed with painter's tape applied for protection before paint.

Staged closet shelving materials stacked and organized before installation.

Horizontal rod railing installed on interior staircase with newel post and handrail, raw wood ready for finish.

Curved staircase with finished newel post and glass baluster railing, raw wood treads ready for stain.

Curved staircase with finished wood treads, risers, handrail, and cable railing system pre-paint.

Newel post with curved handrail installed at base of spiral staircase; raw wood treads and risers visible.

Three-step stair with open risers and horizontal-rod railing, raw wood ready for finish.

Horizontal-rod stair railing with white newel post and baseboard trim during installation.

Three-stringer patio steps with open risers and yellow safety tape on treads during construction.

Composite deck steps with closed risers and wood skirt board installed; multiple treads visible with support stringers.

Finished stair risers with gray stain butted to natural wood skirt board, ready for paint.

Open staircase with finished wood risers and treads, raw wood ready for paint or stain.

Finished stair treads and risers installed with raw wood, ready for paint or stain.

Finished wood risers and treads installed on curved staircase, raw wood ready for paint or stain.

Completed stair railing with horizontal black metal rods, wood handrail, and newel posts—modern horizontal-rod style.

Completed curved staircase with wood skirt, metal balusters, and handrail in painted interior space.

Curved staircase with dark wood skirt, metal balusters, and handrail; finished carpentry and painting complete.

Curved staircase with dark wood skirt boards, newel posts, horizontal metal rod railing, and carpet treads installed.

Installed newel post with handrail and metal baluster railing at stair landing, dark stain finish.

Open-riser garage or patio steps with 2 stringers and raw wood treads mid-construction, no railing installed.

Interior stair framing in progress with raw wood treads and risers, rough construction stage.

Black metal newel post and handrail installed on staircase with raw wood treads taped for protection during construction.

Curved staircase with installed wood balusters and handrail, painted finish complete.

Completed stair railing with horizontal black metal rods between newel posts, gray treads, and white risers.

Completed stair railing with horizontal metal rods, black newel posts, and painted treads and risers.

Finished risers and treads installed on interior staircase with drywall skirt boards, ready for paint.

Finished wood skirt board installed on staircase with raw wood treads and primed drywall walls.

Staircase framing in progress with raw wood risers, composite treads, and drywall walls—pre-finish carpentry stage.

Finished stair risers installed with white skirt boards, raw wood treads ready for paint.

Stair assembly with finished wood treads, risers, skirt boards, and handrail—raw wood ready for paint.

Staircase with finished risers and skirt boards, raw wood treads, ready for paint and stain.

Staircase with finished treads and risers installed, drywall walls, and exterior door opening at landing.

Staircase with carpet treads, wood nosing, painted baseboard, and wall-mounted handrail with brackets.

Staircase skirt boards installed on both sides with open treads, mid-construction phase.

Finished wood risers and treads installed on staircase with painted walls and wood handrail, pre-paint stage.

Staircase framing in progress with drywall walls and raw wood stairs during construction phase.

Finished staircase with painted skirt boards, wall-mount handrail brackets, carpet treads, and completed interior trim and doors.

Horizontal-rod railing on mezzanine level with dark wood newel posts and metal rod balusters in completed foyer.

Completed staircase with wood treads, stair runner, iron balusters, newel post, and painted casing and doors.

Completed iron baluster railing with dark wood newel posts and handrail, installed on upper hallway landing.

Interior stair end caps (false treads) installed at wall junction, raw wood ready for paint or stain.

Stair skirt board and handrail installed in raw wood finish, ready for paint.

Finished wood stair risers and treads installed with skirt board, raw wood ready for paint.

Finished wood stair risers and treads installed, raw wood stage before paint.

Finished stair skirt board and treads installed, raw wood stain applied, ready for paint.

Finished wood stair treads and risers installed, raw wood ready for paint, with construction materials on site.

Two-rise exterior steps with closed risers, natural wood sides, dark treads, installed at door threshold.

Custom-fabricated plinth block with cap detail at door base, raw wood finish ready for paint.

Wooden handrail with rounded profile, raw wood finish ready for stain or paint.

Wood nosing installed on stair tread edges with primed riser boards—raw wood treads ready for finish.

Design sketch of horizontal-rod railing with newel posts and curved base detail.

Completed staircase with carpeted treads, finished risers, and metal handrails installed.

Completed stair treads with wood nosing, painted risers, and installed carpet runner.

Face-frame closet shelving units with wood-grain front frames and white bullnose shelves installed in row.

Completed horizontal-rod glass railing with black metal posts and wood cap rail, modern style.

Finished stair installation with wood treads, nosing, handrail, and painted white risers and skirt board.

Completed stair railing with black newel posts, horizontal rod balusters, and curved handrail with rail fittings.

Iron baluster railing Step 1: drilled holes in treads and handrail ready for epoxy install; balusters staged separately for painting.

Stair risers and treads with finished white skirt boards and handrail installed, raw wood awaiting paint.

White shoe molding installed at base of wood baseboard over carpet transition.

White painted safety gate installed in doorway opening with vertical spindles and functional latch.

White-painted skirt board installed along stair opening with raw wood treads and risers ready for finish.

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