Introduction #
A shower rod carries the shower curtain across the tub or shower opening, and like a towel bar, it takes real pulling force every time someone grabs it, pushes the curtain aside, or leans on it getting in or out. In an apartment unit this is a fast, repeatable install once you know where the backing is and how high the rod needs to sit.
Confirm the exact mounting height called for on this job before you start. It depends on the tub or shower height and the curtain being used, and this guide does not assume a single number applies to every unit.
Straight rods and curved rods mount differently even though the technique is the same. A straight rod loads its flanges in a simple line, while a curved rod pushes outward on the flanges as well as down, since the bow in the rod is fighting to straighten itself. That outward load makes solid backing even more important on a curved rod than on a straight one.
Before You Begin #
Prerequisites #
- Tile work and grout are fully cured, or the tub/shower surround is otherwise finished
- Wall finish on both sides of the shower or tub opening is complete
- Rod height and style (straight rod with flanges vs. curved) confirmed for the unit
- Rod length checked against the actual tub or shower opening width before you order or pull one from stock
What You Need To Know #
- Mount into studs or solid blocking wherever you can reach them. A shower rod sees the same kind of dynamic pulling force as a towel bar, and a light plastic anchor rated for a static load will not hold up over time.
- On tile, use a carbide-tipped masonry bit and go slowly. Pushing hard or drilling fast is how tile cracks.
- Mark both mounting points from the same reference, the tub or shower floor, not the ceiling, so the rod comes out level even if the floor or ceiling is not perfectly consistent.
- Where your mounting point lands on a grout line instead of the middle of a tile, shift the hole slightly into the body of the tile if you can. Grout gives a weaker hold than the tile itself and is more prone to chipping under the bit.
Tools Required #
Power Tools #
- Cordless drill/driver
- Stud finder
Hand Tools #
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Torpedo level
- Masonry bit (for tile)
Supplies #
- Wall anchors rated for pulling force
- Painter's tape (to mark drill points on tile and keep the bit from skating)
- Mounting screws (from the kit)
Materials #
- Shower rod with flanges or mounting brackets
Install a Shower Rod: Step-by-Step Process #
Step 1: Measure and Mark Height #
Measure up from the tub or shower floor at both mounting locations and mark the height. Check both marks against each other with a level rather than assuming the tub itself is level.
Step 2: Check for Studs and Obstructions #
Run the stud finder across both marked locations. Note any plumbing running close to the wall surface at that height, especially near the shower valve.
Step 3: Drill for the Mount #
On drywall, drill a pilot hole and set an anchor rated for pulling force unless you landed on a stud, in which case drive straight into the framing. On tile, tape the drill point first, start with a small pilot bit, and step up to the anchor size with the masonry bit at slow speed and light pressure.
Step 4: Install the Flanges or Brackets #
Mount both flanges or brackets, checking level between them before you fully tighten either side.
Step 5: Set the Rod and Test #
Install the rod into the flanges and tighten any set screws. Pull down and out on the rod, the direction the curtain and a hand grabbing it will load it, to confirm it is solid.
Close-Out #
Wipe down any dust or tile debris from the tub and floor, and sweep the rest of the room. Confirm the rod is level and holds firm before calling the install complete.
Quality Check #
- Rod is level and mounted at the correct height for the job
- Both mounting points are secure and pass a firm pull test
- No cracked tile or damaged wall surface around the mounting holes
- Set screws are tight and the rod does not spin or slide in the flanges
- Finish on the rod matches the rest of the unit's hardware
Troubleshooting #
Rod pulls loose from the wall #
The anchor was not rated for the load, or a screw missed the stud it was aimed at. Upgrade to a heavier anchor, or relocate the mount to land on framing.
Tile cracked while drilling #
You were likely drilling too fast or pushing too hard. Re-drill at an adjacent spot with painter’s tape down, a sharp carbide bit, slow speed, and light pressure.
Rod is not level #
The two mounting points were measured from different references. Re-measure both from the tub or shower floor, re-level, and re-drill if the difference is more than the flange can hide.
Mounting point lands on a grout line #
Shift the hole a small amount into the body of the nearest tile rather than drilling the grout itself. If the flange design will not tolerate any shift, plan on a heavier anchor to make up for the weaker hold a grout line gives you.
