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Introduction #
An 8’0″ (96″) pocket door works the same way as a standard-height pocket door: the slab hangs from rollers on an overhead track and slides into a pocket built into the wall. What changes at this height is the weight and the stock, so it is worth sizing up the pocket door hardware for the extra load before you order. A taller slab is heavier, the split jamb material has to be ordered or cut long enough to reach the full height, and the pocket cavity itself needs to be checked for the extra travel space a taller door needs compared to a 6’8″ unit.
This guide covers what is different about the 8’0″ size. For the core technique on hanging, adjusting, and casing a pocket door, the standard guide covers every step in depth. This one focuses on the height-specific parts of the job.
The framer sets the pocket frame, the steel track and split-stud system, during rough construction, sized for whatever height the plans call for. Confirm the frame was actually built for 8’0″ before you start. A frame set for a standard 6’8″ door will not give you the extra height or the extra pocket depth an 8-foot slab needs.
Before You Begin #
Prerequisites #
- Pocket door frame is installed and inspected, built to 8’0″ specifications with the pocket cavity sized for the taller slab
- Drywall is complete on both sides of the pocket wall, attached with nails or adhesive only in the pocket frame area, not screws
- Floor covering is installed, or the finished floor thickness is known
- Split jamb stock is on site in a length that reaches the full 8’0″ height, either factory-length or field-spliced
- Hardware is rated for the extra weight of an 8-foot slab; check the manufacturer's weight rating before you order
What You Need To Know #
- An 8-foot slab is noticeably heavier than a standard 6’8″ slab. Plan on two people for every step that involves lifting or hanging the door
- The overhead track has to be perfectly level along its full length, same as a standard pocket door, but a longer track gives more room for a small dip to go unnoticed if you don't check the full run
- Split jamb pieces need to run the full 8’0″ height. If the stock on hand is shorter, splice it or special-order the longer length before you start; don't force a short piece to stretch
- The extra height means more ladder work for casing and adjustment steps near the top of the opening. Plan for a stable ladder or step stool, not a stretch off a lower one
Tools Required #
Power Tools #
Hand Tools #
- Tape measure
- 4-foot level
- Pencil
- Screwdriver, flathead and Phillips
- Pliers or a small wrench, for roller adjustment nuts
- Utility knife
- Ladder or sturdy step stool
Supplies #
- 18-gauge brad nails, 1-1/2″ and 2″
- Wood screws, for hardware mounting
- Shims, wood or composite
- Wood glue
- Silicone spray lubricant
Materials #
- Pocket door slab, 8’0″, flat panel style
- Roller hardware rated for the slab's weight
- Split jamb pieces, cut or ordered to the full 8’0″ height
- Pocket door edge pull or flush pull hardware
- Casing material matching the house trim profile
Installation Steps #
Step 1: Inspect the Frame and Confirm the Height #
Check that the pocket frame was actually built to 8’0″ specifications, not a standard-height frame mistaken for the taller size. Run a level along the full length of the overhead track. At this longer span, check it in more than one spot, not just at the ends. Clear the pocket cavity of debris and check for drywall screws poking through, same as on a standard pocket door, along the full extra height.
Step 2: Attach Roller Hardware and Hang the Slab #
Mount roller brackets to the top edge of the slab, following the hardware manufacturer's spacing. With a helper supporting the weight, tilt the slab up and hook the rollers onto the track. Slide the door through its full travel to check for smooth movement before you go any further.
Step 3: Adjust Height and Plumb #
Use the adjustment nuts on the roller brackets to set the bottom gap, standard is about 1/2″ off the finished floor, and to bring the slab plumb. Check plumb at both the top and bottom of the slab. On a taller door, a small lean at the top reads as a bigger gap at the bottom than it would on a standard-height slab.
Step 4: Install the Split Jambs #
Install the strike-side jamb first, shimming it plumb and nailing through the shims into the framing for the full 8’0″ height. Install the pocket-side jamb pieces next, checking at several heights along the run that the door still slides freely and isn't pinched anywhere. Test the door after each jamb piece goes in; catching a bind early is much easier than after the trim is finished.
Step 5: Install Hardware and Case the Opening #
Install the edge pulls and any privacy lock hardware, following the same layout as a standard pocket door. Case both sides of the opening, mitering corners and nailing with 18-gauge brads, using a ladder or stool for the upper sections rather than overreaching. Leave a consistent 3/16″ reveal between the casing and the opening edge so the casing doesn't catch the door on its way out of the pocket.
Close-Out #
Sweep up sawdust and drywall debris from around the opening and the pocket cavity access points. Test the door through its full range one more time with the casing installed, since casing set too close can catch a door that cleared fine before.
Quality Check #
- Door slides smoothly through full travel without catching or dragging
- Door hangs plumb in the closed position
- Consistent bottom gap across the full travel of the door
- Split jambs run the full height with no pinch points
- Casing is clean, tight, and consistent on both sides
- No screws protruding into the pocket cavity
- Door does not rattle or wobble when sliding or at rest
Troubleshooting #
Door Is Hard to Slide #
Check that the track is level along its full length, not just at the ends. On a longer track, a dip in the middle is easy to miss without checking more than two points.
Door Hangs Crooked #
Adjust the roller height on the low side using the adjustment nuts, checking plumb at both the top and bottom of the slab, since a lean shows up more at this height.
Split Jamb Binds Partway Up #
The jamb likely isn't running true for the full height, especially if it was spliced from shorter stock. Check for a step or kink at the splice point and re-shim that section.
Casing Catches the Door #
The reveal is too tight. Reset the casing to a full 3/16″ reveal and retest through the full range of travel before nailing it off for good.
